FAMILY AND FRIENDS IF YOU WANT OUR TORRES BLOG
WITH PHOTOS SEE http://theotherwayroundtheworld.blogspot.com/2011/11/torres-del-paine-full-circuit.html
Trekking guide to Torres Del Paine full cicuit
I am
writing this blog as information for fellow travellers in Patagonia
who are looking for information on the trek as I know it’s sparse and
confusing.
So sorry to
the family and friends this is not one for you!
All
information is based on a trip in November 2011
Equipment
Equipment
rental in Puerto Natales is not as expensive as you might think.
We paid
$3000 CLP for a small 2 person Doite tent (Himilaya 2), this was light and
adequate. We spent a long time looking to buy a similar tent throughout Chile
Also Base
Camp have a second hand section where you can get half empty gas canisters and
roll mats and stuff.
Prices of
items in PN:
- Tent $3000 per night RENT
- Walking poles $2000 per day
RENT
- Gas to buy $2200 BUY
- Roll matt $4000 BUY
Food
There are 2
supermarkets in Puerto Natales, these have a good range of stuff. We purchased
all our food in Puerto Montt before getting the Navimag ferry and I think we
saved about 20%.
Specialist
items are harder to find in PN.
There is a
dry food shop selling raisins and nuts in PN, and I have heard from loads of
people he rips you off so be careful.
Trek
We made
errors in the amount of time we thought the full circuit would take and where
we could walk, so here is a quick run down of a reasonable plan, this is for a
couple carrying all food and tent for the duration of the trip.
- The whole walk is marked with
red stakes you do not need a topo map.
- I would always advise people to
walk anti clockwise, the winds on the circuit are crazy and dong it clock
wise would lead to a very nasty 2 days walking in to storm force 100 kph head
wind.
- Note my timings, for the back
side of the circuit the map is pretty accurate on the W it’s laughable at
times.
- There is the possibility to buy
basic food and gas around the circuit if you need it but expect to pay
$1000 CLP for 400g Pasta, $4500 gas, $1500 chocolate, $1000 biscuits.
- Park entry $15000 CLP for as
long as you stay.
- If you want to eat in the
refugios (the meals looked basic and bad value lacking necessary calories),
Dickson, Grey, Paine, Cuernos, Hotel Torres, Chileno it costs around
$10000 CLP for dinner and Breakfast was $5500.
Day 1 – Amagra administration point to Seron
6 Hours
From the
admin center you can take another path that most people don’t take, this path
runs parallel with the normal path but is deserted and gives you great views of
the Torres while walking.
The map
states the walk to the campsite is 10.5 Km’s but its more like 15, it doesn’t
account for the second part of the trail.
The camping
at Seron costs $4000 CLP per person, NOTE camping Coiron is closed you cannot
camp there. Walking to Dickson is another 6 hours and not possible if you are
carrying serious weight.
Day 2 – Seron - Dickson
7 hours
The walk to
Dickson starts with a quite steep climb an hour in over a pass, after that it
contours the valley for the remainder of the day.
There is
lots of talk of bogs on the walk, Its really just one 100 meter stretch, 1/3 of
it is covered with a board walk, the remainder has planks of wood, and logs
thrown in to hop on. We were there at a dry period but it was fine.
Dickson
cost $3500 CLP per person.
Day 3 – Dickson - Perros
4.5 hours
This walk
starts with quite a steep climb for around 40 minutes to the start of the
forest, after this the remainder of the day travels through forest, it was a
little muddy and in a wet period could be very muddy. We used poles.
Los Perros
is a very basic camp site, there is a hut to cook in, but one shower was broken
and the other only cold water.
Perros cost
$3500 CLP per person
Day 4 – Perros to Paso
6 Hours
This day
crosses the pass, its around a 3 ½ hour hike to the top of the pass, in
November the trek to the pass was pretty snowy, I don’t think gaiters are
essential but if you have them then they could be useful.
On top of
the pass was un believably windy, we had to get out of there immediately.
Coming down the other side was pretty horrible, we spent 30 minutes sliding
down snow, I think here you could break a leg pretty easily if you were un
lucky.
Once you
get in to the forest its about 2 hours to the campsite Paso. Some people go on
to Guardas which is another 3 hours but this makes for a very big day. Then
unless you want to pay for refugios you have to complete another 9 hour
day….Not for me
FREE
camping
Day 5 – Paso to Guardas
3 Hours
We used
this as a rest day to walk and rest for the afternoon before our long next day.
Beware this
walk is perilous, you have to walk along several ridges where the wind is
blowing storm force and was enough to knock us off our feet on occasion, there
is often long drops to the glacier below.
There are
also several gully’s to cross, one has a working ladder the other has been
destroyed. On this one there is a hanging rope on the left hand side, DO NOT
try to climb the gully walls they will crumble on you and the result could be
fatal.
FREE
camping
Day 6 – Guardas to Italiano
9 Hours
The walk to
refugio Grey takes 1 hour not the stated 2, this is because you go downhill, I
walk very slowly downhill as well. Unless you want to get something at refugio
grey there is no point walking 15 minutes down hill to it, the views you have
seen for the past 2 days are much better.
The Walk to
Paine Grande from here is the stated 4.5 hours, there is a chance here to
shelter in their restaurant if its raining, or use their toilets etc.
The walk
from Paine to Italiano took the stated time, Italiano is very basic and I
imagine quite busy in peak season.
FREE
camping
Day 7 – Italiano – day hike French valley
5.5 Hours
We used
Italiano as a base for 2 nights, it meant we could leave our tent and main
packs in the camp site and hike the French valley with no weight. You could
camp at the top of the French valley at Britanico which is also free but it’s a
big climb.
After the
French valley you can walk on to Cuernos but its $6000 CLP per person and very
exposed to high winds.
FREE
camping at Italiano
Day 8 – Italiano – camp Torres
8 hours
This is
where the trail times start to go wrong, we left at 7 am and were prepared for
an 11 hour day which didn’t happen, we did it in 8, we were pushing on quite
hard now with light packs but nothing crazy.
There is a
shortcut halfway along to Hostel Torres from Cuernos that probably saved 1.5
hours as well, it is sign posted shortcut to Chileno, from here its 5 km’s to
Chileno. This means you don’t have to walk steep up hill from Hostel Torres for
2 hours.
At the end
of the shortcut you round a corner in to a new valley, at the pass it can be
very windy, tie everything down or you risk loosing it, there is also a huge
drop so be careful.
From here
its 30 minutes to Chileno, then a further 1 hour on to Camp torres
From camp Torres
FREE
camping
Day 9 – Italiano – Amagra
5 hours
From this
campsite you can go to see the spires at sun rise, in November we had to get up
at 4 am, leave the campsite by 4.30 to arrive to the top around 5.15, you will
need a torch.
We took a
stove and cooked breakfast and had coffee.
On return
to the campsite we packed up and left at 8, it’s a 3 hour walk to Hostal Torres
where you have the option to pay $3000 CLP per person for the 7.5 Km ride to
Amagra, we decided to walk. The map stated 1.5 hours, on tired legs this was
longer and took 2 hours.
At Amagra
we washed and waited in the sun for the 2.30 bus back to PN.
Transport
All buses
from PN to TDP are set at $15000 CLP don’t pay more, the bus should pick you up
from your hostel if they organise it.
The bus
usually leaves at 7.30 am.
The bus
takes 2.5 hours, with a stop for photos.
Tips and Hints
- Buying food at Vertice rather
than Fantastic Sur is cheaper
- Be careful on the gulleys, look
for ropes
- Take bin bags to put your
backpack in (outside your tent in a porch), the two man tents are not big
enough to store them inside
- The water is clean you can
drink from rivers
- Check all equipment before you
leave
- Think about taking a poncho,
this ensures your water proof jacket stays dry for those cold evenings
when it rains all day on the trail. (and it will) This also keeps your bag
dry.
- Carrier bags are great for
storing boots and food, take extra.
- If you think you have enough food take a little more!
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